The Right Needle

Now think about the thread. Most designs are stitched with 40wt rayon or polyester thread. Match 40wt thread to a size 12/90 needle. A metallic thread will perform best with a metallic needle. Finer threads such as 60wt will perform better with a 10/70 needle. Heavier threads, such as a 30wt work better with a 16/100 needle.

If your bobbin thread is not feeding smoothly or your top thread keeps shredding, you may need to use a larger needle. One way to be sure is to use about 10" of thread, then thread the needle (not in the machine). Hold one end of the thread in each hand. By raising and lowering one hand at a time, check to see if the needle moves smoothly toward the lower hand. If the needle moves too easily, re-test with a smaller needle.

There are exceptions. If embroidering a heavy fabric such as denim, use a size 16/100 or even an 18/110 needle. For embroidering on paper, use the smallest needle your thread will allow (to avoid creating unattractively large holes).

Sounds complicated? For the most part, you will be using size 12 needles, so stock up on those. If you embroider mostly sweatshirts and t-shirts, buy plenty of ball point needles. If most of your fabrics are wovens (quilt squares, dish towels, napkins), have plenty of sharp needles on hand. Buy specialty needles as needed, or when on sale.

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from Mary Jane Allen of Perfect Little Stitches

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